The Beat of Kalam

Getting immersed in a cultural phenomenon
by Betrand Linet

Simbai is the home of the Kalam tribe in the heart of the highlands of Madang. It is one of Papua New Guinea’s undeveloped places where people still live a subsistence lifestyle in traditional villages scattered through pristine wilderness territory and untouched by westernisation.

With a unique, authentic, living and breathing showcase of Kalam culture, staged for no one but themselves, their ancestors would definitely have turned in their graves in pride and joy.

When my French friend Marc Dozier, a Papua New Guinea specialist, described Simbai to me, I knew it would be my next destination in PNG. So, when I landed at the tiny airstrip in Simbai recently to watch the festival , I was so excited. I didn’t know I would spend one of my most memorable experiences in Papua New Guinea.

Maria Helpim Pilgrimage

After having report during my hiking adventure to Halopa Station and Wauwap Waterfall in Madang early this year, I have decided to be part of a pilgrimage event by the Catholic religion. This is an annual event that falls on every September before PNG’s Independence Day.

On Wednesday 15^th September (just a day before PNG’s Independence), I went on a pilgrimage to “Maria helpim” with Arnold Sapurie. This was the place in Madang province where the Steyl Missionaries and the Holy Spirit Sisters would hide from the attacks of Japanese during the Second World War in 1941 to 1945. In remembrance of the guidance of Maria (mother of Jesus Christ) whom the missionaries prayed to for protection they walk this path every year.

B17 Black Jack Wreck in Boga Boga, Cape Vogel



Black Jack's Tail-plane and Archie the Divemaster from Tufie Dive



Lying undisturbed in the deep water just off the fringing reef from the remote village of Boga Boga on the tip of Cape Vogel, is what many consider to be the best aircraft wreck in Papua New Guinea and possibly the world.

The wreck is the B-17F “Black Jack”, serial number 41-24521, and one of the first Flying Fortress bombers built at the Boeing factory in Seattle during WWII.

PNG hailed as world class adventure hub

Pns

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

PORT MORESBY - Papua New Guinea (PNG) has been hailed as the last adventure in the world and a world class adventure destination.

A Visit to Rempi, north coast of Madang

Peter's house at Wargidan village, Rempie

On Saturday 12^th February, I took a 45minutes PMV ride from town to Rempie at Wargidan community situated along the north-coast of Madang town.


Peter Siroi and village elders

It was around 1700hrs when I arrived at Wargidan community. Peter Siroi, who wanted me to visit his village, was there to welcome me. The village was situated close to a beautiful lagoon made up of three small pristine coral islands to the east which was an ideal snorkeling location for a village get-away! 

During that afternoon, I was able to meet with some of the village elders and clan leaders.  The elders that were present upon my arrival were Kendos Anut former council and current community leader; Francis Ganui current Council; and Mr Buko current inland community leader of the Baitata village.

I brought with me some food stuff and gave to Peter’s family to organize our dinner and hot coffee for the elders.

We sat and discussed some of the issues relating to tourism and identified what they have within their area. Upon discussion, I identified their main products as snorkeling with traditional canoeing, and caving with forest experience towards the inland along Baitata road.

Sunday 13^th February

A beautiful sunrise in the east

Don's Experience to Orotabo Village near Tufi, Oro Province

Orotoaba Village Home Stay

Tim Flannery - Throwim Way Leg

I am blaming it all on Tim Flannery… I used to think I was quite adventurous until I read  “Throwim Way Leg” about his adventures in Papua New Guinea.

As a keen diver & underwater photographer, PNG is one of my favorite places in the world and I have been lucky enough to visit the country 1-2 times a year for over 10 years.
But when I read about Tim’s extended field trips into the remotest parts of the country I felt a little bit like Homer Simpson watching the Discovery Channel….

Coordinating tours in the far remote of East Sepik and Simbai

It was the busiest time of the year with traffic at the airport and lots of passengers rushing in for check-in. We pushed our way through and finally made to the counter. Not long, we had our boarding call. It was about 15minutes into our boarding time as Jane and I dashed our way through the security checkpoint and out to gate number 10 to board our Air Niugini flight. We were the last passengers to board the aircraft and took off at around 5am. It was the coldest morning of Saturday 4^th December 2010.

We landed safely at Wewak's Boram Airport at 6 and the sky gave a clear dawn in the east with a spectacular sunrise view over the horizon. The hotel-shuttle bus was in time to pick us up to Boutique Hotel where we were accommodated for three nights.

Theo - arriving at East Sepik's Boram Airport



Wauwap Waterfall and Adventure - Report

Halopa is a Catholic village station within the hinterland of Alexishafen situated due north-west of Madang town. It is one of the most remote areas located towards the tip of the Adelbart Range in the upper higher lands of Madang’s north-coast that passes through St. Benedict’s Agricultural & Technical College at Danip few kilometers away from the main catholic mission at Alexishafen.

It takes almost 45minutes drive from Madang to the agricultural college at Danip on left few kilometers away from Alexishafen. The road from the college to Halopa station is unsealed and takes another 1 and half hour drive (total of almost 2hours drive from town to Halopa) by a four-wheel drive or 10-seater Hilux due to potholes and bumpy areas of the highway. The first half of the unsealed road has been upgraded but the other half of the road towards the station has potholes and ditches along the highway which causes most of the vehicles to turn at Apug Mountain leaving the passengers to walk. However, the highway is accessible with four-wheel drives and mostly frequented by the Catholic Priests and the medical workers transporting aid-post supplies for the station.
It is one of the untouched areas that is potential for hiking and bird-watching as well as other ecotourism activities.

Locals taking a swim at  Wuawap Waterfall